Complete: More Summer Basics

Well, hello to you! It's been tricky of late to find the time to sit down and do this post - probably because I've been spending all my spare time sewing instead - but here are the rest of this summer's basic tees. I warn you in advance, this is a pretty photo-heavy post, but maybe someone out there will find the comparisons helpful. I always like reading up on other people's experiences of patterns before I tackle them anyway :)

Last time I shared my versions of the Kirsten Kimono Tee. This time we'll kick off with the knit top from New Look 6899, the pattern I used for my Head vs Heart Skirt (still a favourite, by the way). When I bought it it was really only for the skirt; the top didn't register as a possibility at all. But two years on, I thought it was time to try it. Because I sew knits now... ;)

This is a slightly scooped boat neck top with raglan sleeves, and I used a fine, drapey (viscose?) knit fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics and Remnants. The pattern has quite a lot of shaping, including at the back centre seam, and I was able to do the whole thing on the overlocker. (Why did I ever bother trying to sew knits on my regular machine??)

(Please ignore the dire need for ironing...) I think I stretched the raglan seams a little when sewing them, which is something I'll have to watch out for next time.

The pattern actually calls for twin needling at the hem and sleeves, which I tried to do. Unfortunately my machine wasn't having a bar of that - it absolutely destroyed those hemlines, chewing up the fabric like no one's business. (Is this normal for lighter-weight fabrics? I must research that more.) In the end I had to cut all attempted hems off. This meant for the sleeves at least there wasn't enough fabric left to turn under and try again, not without catching up the upper side seam, anyway. So instead I sewed bands to finish them off, and this is where the formula given in the Kirsten Tee was so helpful. Although since arm bands don't curve the same way a neckband does, I probably could have made them slightly longer than the given 70% - maybe 80% or so.

The hem band I kept the same width as the top itself, so as to keep the drape. Wish I'd made sure it was sitting flat before taking the photo...

 I do like this one, but I've found I like it best tucked in with skirts or trousers (just not jeans...). The drapiness of the fabric gives it a bit of a blouse feel that seems to work when it's tucked in. I'd happily make this one again, although maybe next time in a fabric that can handle a twin needle.


Next up is the Tonic Tee, by Skinny Bitch, Curvy Chick Patterns, a free fitted t-shirt pattern that I downloaded back in February and hadn't got around to until now. (There's a free long sleeved, crew neck version too - also free - that I will absolutely be sewing up for next autumn/winter).

Very Important Note, that I wish had been mentioned in the instructions: As a PDF pattern you have to tape these pages together with the edges butted up flush against each other, NOT overlapping them. It's not something I've ever come across in a PDF pattern before, and since the pattern lines on the pages don't go right to the edges it does look as though they're meant to overlap. But they're not. This was extremely confusing until I googled other people's Tonic posts. I love the online sewing community...

I sewed this up in a cotton grey marle knit, that has plenty of stretch, but little drape.

I sewed the XS graded out to S at the hips, according to the measurements given, and it's a very similar fit to RTW. Again, all done on the overlocker, bar the twin needling at hems - no trouble this time!

It went together very easily, and was a relatively quick make. Would I make it again? Well, actually...

I already did!

This one (which I cut out at the same time as I did the first, in either Blind Optimism or Lack of Foresight...lucky it fits!) is out of the same fabric as the New Look top above. At least I thought it was, but it seemed to handle the twin needle fine - on the sleeves at least. The hem was so appalling I couldn't even bear to photograph it. Nothing for it but to cut it off. If I could have burned the offcuts I would have. Once again, the band solution came to the rescue.

There was one other change I made to the first Tonic, and that was the neckband. I think you can tell in the photos that the second sits a bit more nicely. Go back and check. I'll wait :)

 When I sewed the grey neckband on, I was surprised to see that it wasn't sitting quite flat, since the rest of the top was going together so nicely. I went back and checked the instructions and saw this:

Notice how in the illustration there's overhang at both ends? I'd completely missed that the first time around.

Now, it feels a bit ungracious to say this when the pattern is free, but I don't see why the pattern piece can't just be printed at the right size. Since there are no markings or notches, it really is guesswork to get it right. I just tried to make my pinned pre-sewn version look similar to the diagram and hoped for the best.

When they're laid out flat together, you can see the difference:

It's really just a minor quibble I suppose, because I really do like the fit overall - these are going to be great summer basics, and being fitted, will sit very nicely layered under jackets or cardigans in cooler weather too. It's a good go-to pattern, and will get plenty of use down the track I think.

To wrap up, here's the last of my summer tees - ironically this was the first I made, and that back in May. This is the Style Arc Riva Raglan Tee. 

I think this is meant to be a sporty style tee. I also think I'd like it much better in a different fabric, though to be fair, this was only ever intended to be the muslin. It got pressed into service during MMM.

This is a knit with plenty of stretch (it has a cotton lycra kind of feel, but I'm guessing here) and is also extremely stiff. Since it's a bit more voluminous than the other patterns here, that makes it quite sticky-outy when worn (There's probably a proper sewing term for that, but I don't know it, sorry...)

 Also - and this is the first time I've ever wondered about the drafting on a SA pattern - the neckband seems a little long because it just doesn't sit flat, You can see that in the photos above. And if not, you can definitely see it in the one below:

This one doesn't really get worn out of the house, unless it's to go walking the dog, or picking up kids from the bus stop. I think a future version would be vastly improved by using a softer fabric and fine tuning the fit of the neckband. It does seem to be asking for a second chance, especially with contrast sleeves... Maybe some time.

Anyhow, that's it for the summer basics (unless I can find a singlet or tank pattern I like in the next few weeks). Apologies for the mercilessly long post; I won't inflict such a long one on you all again, I promise!

 The best thing about sewing my basics first, rather than diving in to the exciting ones, is that now my more interesting projects will all have something that goes with them...no more wardrobe orphans :D

Next post, one of my favourite makes ever!

PS: Can anyone suggest a good singlet /tank pattern?? Thanks :D

Complete: Kirsten Kimono Tees

Hello again :) It's been rather longer than expected or planned between posts, I'm afraid. Life's been a bit fraught of late; I've had to let go of some of the "plates" I usually try and keep spinning and concentrate on just one or two of the more urgent ones. Things do seem to be settling down now, thank goodness, so here I am with the first of my warm weather projects.

This season I've tried to start on some of the basic plans first; in previous seasons I've raced on to the more exciting projects, and then found I didn't have much to wear them with. I'm hoping this will be a little more practical as an approach.

However, that does mean that this post and the next won't be all that spectacular for you...I've been trying out some different basic summer knit top patterns - not exciting, a big gap in my MM wardrobe I really felt last year - so maybe one of you out there may find the comparisons useful. Hope so, anyway!

First of the patterns I tried is Maria Denmark's Kirsten Kimono Tee, a free PDF downloadable here. This is the only one I'll show this post, because I got a bit carried away playing with it.

Just in case you haven't come across this one, Kirsten is a short kimono sleeve knit top, with boat neck self fabric band. It's just three pieces in total and only uses about 80cm of fabric, so it's a pretty quick and economical option. It's intended to be fitted over the bust and then loose over the waist and hips. Going by the measurements given, I cut out an XS using the striped knit left over from my first Plantain tee.

As muslins go, it's a pretty wearable one which always makes me happy. It doesn't fit on me the way it's supposed to, I think; mine's loose around the waist and a bit snugger at the hips than the pattern notes suggested, but I actually don't mind that - in fact I usually feel swamped in too much volume. This is loose enough to feel comfy without being slobbish.

The pattern itself was very simple to put together, and is finished at the hems with a twin needle. One thing that surprised me was that there's no piece given for the neckband. I confess, I was irritated a little by this at first, but then realised Maria the designer had done something very clever instead. She gives the formula for working out neckbands (and, I guess, all bands) so you can work it out yourself. This came in extremely useful in a make I'll post about next time, where the neckband piece didn't fit well at all. "Teach a man to fish...."

 I've already worn it a bit, but do feel the fabric, which while having plenty of stretch is quite a stiff
knit, is not completely ideal for this pattern. I think it's more suited to a drapier knit. So, having had a look through my leftovers stash, I tried making it up in the black/gold lurex knit I'd used for my queue jumper dress:

This fabric was still having no truck with the twin needle, so once again I did a narrow zigzag stich to hem the sleeves and lower edge. The neckline at the front puckers a little bit, but it's not too dire. (I'll be honest - it's pretty nasty to sew) I definitely prefer the lighter, drapey knit for this pattern; it falls nicely whereas the first version kind of puffs out.

I really like this one - and it's such a comfy way to be a bit dressy! Plus my favourite necklace likes it too...

That success got me thinking. Some may be able to pull off gold lurex for everyday wear, but I'm not sure I'm one of them. Time for an everyday casual version...

I'd noticed the join line where the A4 printed sheets are taped together when I was making the previous two tops, so I thought I'd try using that line to make a colour blocked version:

Incidentally, that's the best neckband and neatest twin needling I've ever done!

Back is same as the front, though now I'm wondering how a solid colour back, panelled front and neckband in the main colour would look...

This is my favourite one actually; it sits well, feels lovely on, and seems like it'll be a really useful wardrobe addition.

I have a few other versions in mind, but they can wait their turn. There are plenty of other summery projects to be getting on with. More on those next time :) And I apologise for all the sunglasses shots - hayfever is at particularly miserable levels at the moment...

In knitting news, I did finish the jumper for my dad's birthday, and, despite some serious doubts to the contrary in the last few rows, had enough yarn. By only 30cm.... My colourwork jumper for me is coming along nicely, if slowly, and I think my experimenting is going to pay off the way I hoped. Just in time for, er, summer :(

Finally, some of the comments last post touched on something that interested me. I'd mentioned that I pretty much keep blog content confined to sewing content, although that's an approach that varies from blogger to blogger, which was reflected in the comments. So, I'm curious - how much of yourself/your life do you share? What are your parameters for sharing?

Complete: Hudson Pants

Well, after that brief foray into glamour last post, we're back firmly in comfy territory! Here's my version of the Hudson Pants, which I think is the first pattern released by True Bias. These were a bit of a departure for me - I usually have pretty firm ideas about what I think suits me, but sometimes this can get in the way of experimenting with something new. So since I've been seeing some really wonderful versions of these popping up around the place (Nic, yours made me download the pattern immediately!), I thought I'd branch out and give them a go once I found some deserving fabric. 

There are much snazzier versions out there - contrast trims, etc - but when I found this fabric on a recent jaunt to Melbourne, I decided to keep them simple. Which, on me, I prefer. The fabric is from Clear It in Fitzroy which I discovered through the ever-gorgeous Sarah of Fabric Tragic, and is an Alannah Hill wool blend. (A burn test at home suggests it's rather more blend than wool, but never mind...) It feels sublime to wear, SO soft, snugly and luxurious that it's like wearing a cashmere blanket, and has tiny spots (V-shaped, but I don't know what else to call them) that gleam and subtly catch the light. (I'm very excited about my summer sewing haul from that day, and was debating about showing it here; do people mind reading show-and-tell sessions? Or is that only interesting to the show-er?? Don't want to bore y'all!)

The fabric had exactly the right amount of stretch recommended in the pattern, and I made them up exactly as written with no modifications at all. It's a beautifully drafted pattern and the instructions are very clear. Plus there's a sewalong on her blog, so it may well be the easiest pants project ever. I was able to make them up (including taping and cutting out the PDF) in an afternoon, so for a relatively instant gratification project you really can't do better!

My photos aren't sterling, I'm afraid, and I seem to have the big-head-tiny-feet thing happening that comes when the camera's not pointed straight...Most of the time my 13-year-old photographer does a great job, so I shouldn't complain. Maybe I should look into getting a remote and tripod though - I'm sure she'd be thrilled!

I do have a sneaking suspicion that these will be one of those makes that in a few years I'll look back on and think "less than flattering", especially from the back, but given it's a pretty current style I think I can get away with it for the moment. (Favourite Anne of Green Gables quote: "I'd rather look ridiculous with everyone else than plain and sensible all by myself.") Besides, they just feel so unbelievably lovely to wear! And I love them with my Rowe tops.

The importance of pockets really can't be overestimated... These do look great in the pictures I've seen as a contrast trim with matching cuffs, but being a good foot or so off being statuesque I'm always a bit leery of anything that visually cuts off leg length. I'll leave that to the amazon-proportioned of you out there....

The only thing I'd be watchful of next time I make up this pattern is where the elastic overlaps at the back. I didn't stretch the fabric over this slightly thicker section enough when I sewed the casing for the drawstring, so there's a 2cm or so part that doesn't gather as tightly. It's not a massive issue, especially since a top will usually be covering it when I'm wearing them, but when the rest of the pants went together so nicely it just niggles at me a little.

 It's just occurred to me how much of my sewing for me this year has been with knits. So I guess we can tick the become-more-confident-with-knits goal off the list for this year. Mind you, there are several outstanding goals on that list....I may have been a touch over-ambitious. Or blindly optimistic. So many projects, so little time!

I'm trying to decide whether to finish off a couple of unfinished projects or move on to my new exciting ones....What do you typically do? Finish the old or usher in the new?? I'm curious!

Complete: Two Plantains

I know, I'm pretty late to the party on this one! I feel like just about everyone in the online sewing world has made and blogged Deer and Doe's Plantain Tshirt. Confession: whenever I hear the phrase "must-have", the can't-make-me gene I inherited from my mother's side quietly kicks in. But I've seen some lovely versions of this, on very different women, and so this pattern has been growing on me for a while. Plus it's free...

For those who haven't come across it, it's a basic scoop neck tee with the option of either 3/4 or full length sleeve (with elbow patches too, if that's your thing). It's an A-line shape, as you can see below, and that's partly what made me hesitate when I first saw it. Most of my life I've been fairly straight up and down, (a Column, minus the height, if you're into Trinny and Susannah) and so felt that defined waists were most flattering on me. Any tops or dresses that flowed from the shoulders or bust made me look about twelve - and an underdeveloped twelve, at that. But the last year or two have seen things, er, redistribute a little, so I thought I'd give it a go!

I'm glad I did! I really like the way this sits on me - below is the would-be-muslin-but-now-promoted-to-fully-fledged-wardrobe-member. It's a fairly stretchy but very stable knit without much drape that I picked up on sale at Spotlight about eighteen months ago (bought against the day I'd get over Knit Intimidation). This was sewn together almost entirely on the overlocker, which is what I'll be doing with ALL knit tops from now on. I just had to be careful I pinned it well so that the stripes matched neatly (which they do!) - and of course ensure that I didn't run over any pins (doooooom!)

The sleeves and hem were done with my twin needle, which I also used to top stitch around the neckline seam. 

I love how relaxed the fit is, without being sloppy. The pattern is drafted really well; the neckline especially went in bee-yew-tifully.

 I actually made this back in May, and it very quickly became a staple. I think I got lucky with this pattern - which is not to take anything away from the design/drafting. I just mean the neckline is exactly the right depth, the ease is just as I'd like it, and the shoulders are in precisely the right spot to stay put and not pull. And I just sewed up the pattern as is! It's actually the best fitting knit top I've ever worn - including RTW. So much for Knit Intimidation! If only every sewing challenge was as easily to overcome...

The neckline isn't flawless - I tried to keep it completely on the white stripe, but there's a tiny bit of navy in there that I didn't notice had slipped in until after I'd sewn it. I can live with that more easily than taking it apart and trying to fix it though...

Like I said, this became a staple favourite right away. But I was curious as to how the pattern would behave with a really drapey knit. I found some at our local gem of a fabric store not long afterwards, and as I was admiring it, and wondering how it would look, I noticed the sales assistant was actually wearing a top in the same fabric! Sold me :)

This muted green in one of my favourite colours to wear - and it's really hard to find in fabric or RTW. I decided to go with the long sleeves for this version, and since it was so drapey, tried adding 12cm to the length to make it more of a tunic style. I really like wearing it with my ponte leggings...

The colour's really intriguing when you look at it. I tried a close up to show - it's woven (knitted?) in teal and magenta threads. I love seeing the way colours mix together.

So there you have it - you can add my name to the long list of Plantain Lovers! I'm thinking merino wool for next time...

On another very happy note - all the school production costume sewing is done. (Satisfying, but I don't remember ever feeling so tired before!) The show's in two weeks, so the proper countdown is on :)

I did take one day off from costume sewing a few weeks ago, and had a blissful time fabric shopping in Melbourne with a friend. I'm trying to buy fabric for the next season or so of sewing in one big go, rather than bits here and there. I'm finding this a) helps me buy for items that will end up coordinating with each other, and b) means I'm actually spending less overall, since it's more considered, planned and non-impulse. Mind you, a few other purchases slip in occasionally, but even they tend now to be really satisfying finds rather than spur of the moment and swiftly regretted buys.

On the way back, we were talking about clothes we loved when we were little. It occurred to me how unrestricted we were as kids when it came to what we liked and didn't like in terms of clothing, and how typically our opinions gradually become increasingly defined and controlled by society/the fashion industry/ RTW. Here's what I'm trying to work out - is this just a result of getting older, or is this connected to the general loss of personal dressmaking skills nowadays?? Sure, there were definite "looks" in the 60s and 70s, but I think choices within those looks were more varied when you knew you could make it (or have it made) in any colour or fabric or print you liked. Non-sewing people today are completely controlled by what's on offer this season, whether it suits them or not... and I know how I would let myself be dictated to in that sense before I started really sewing for myself.

Does that make sense? I'm just musing over it. What do you think? Do you think being able to sew your own clothes enables a more definite sense of personal style? Do share!