Complete: A Jacket & Leftover Skirt

I'm back this week with an attempt to triumph over vanity. Well, to at least let pride triumph over vanity...which doesn't sound all that laudable at all, really. I'll explain - this is one of my favourite ever things to wear that I've made, coupled with some of my least liked photos (own fault: felt wretched, should've stayed home, soldiered on and can see it in every shot. Never mind, we can't all be models!)

 



This jacket is a pattern released by Spotlight here in Australia, oh, maybe seven years ago, as part of their then Get Creative range. I bought it at the time in case I ever tried making clothes for myself sometime in the future (!), and promptly forgot about it. The fabric, a wine -not purple - coloured pinwale corduroy I bought two years ago in case I ever tried making a casual blazer, and promptly forgot about it.

 

The pattern calls itself a military-style jacket. I didn't make any structural modifications; the only changes I made were to not do the three rows of topstitching at each seam (not avoidance, I just thought it would be lost and wasted on corduroy), and to lose the front tie fastenings (which looked fussy and annoying).

 

The above photo is from May, which I've included because I actually look happy in this shot. Plus, this outfit (jacket, Kanerva blouse and Burda pants) is one of my all-time favourites, self-made or otherwise, which I think is worth acknowledging!

In far less happy shots...

 As mentioned above, this jacket had tie fastenings, so doesn't do up at the front. I was dubious at first (wouldn't it just look too small?) but I actually really like how it sits. The shaping in it gives a nice line, and it doesn't feel at all restrictive like a done-up blazer sometimes can.

 Instead of the ties, I experimented with these patches for (non-functioning) buttonholes and buttons.

I sewed them on a very slight diagonal, with the cord's direction contrasting with the fabric underneath. The vintage buttons were a surprise gift from Sarah along with one of her giveaways; I'd been saving them up waiting for the perfect project.

 

I mentioned a few posts ago that I've been trying to find uses for my ever-growing pile of scraps and leftovers. Well, this gets a double tick! There was no lining drafted for the pattern itself, just wide facings at front, back yoke and hem. I'd overlocked the other seams, which were also top-stitched (just once though), and they looked fine. But I thought I'd to try something a bit special on the facings' edges, and so bound them with some of the leftover silk from my Vogue 1152 dress. Confession: it's not cut strictly on the bias, since there wasn't enough fabric, but since all the edges were straight or diagonal I didn't think it would matter too much. I love the effect! 

 

 

The other tick is given for, wait for it: getting a whole other garment out of the leftovers! True, the hem isn't as generous as it should be and the back piece is seamed rather than cut on the fold, but I'm not arguing! This is View B of Burda 7147, an A-line mini wrap skirt:

 

...and I definitely should have ironed the wrinkles out pre-photography... This is a really quick project, that can be squeezed out of just under a metre of fabric.

The fronts fold back over themselves to form facings, and snaps are sewn on to secure it.

 Some dark early morning photos there, sorry. I like an A-line silhouette, although this is a much shorter version than I'm used to. I probably wouldn't wear it without tights.

One change I did make that was choice and not necessity was to add a lining; since I planned to wear this with tights I thought that it might help stop it riding up or "sticking". And it works. I wish I could think of a way to stop it sticking to itself at the front wrap...

So, one lot of project leftovers has been used up. Now I just have to find ways to use up the rest of the drawer!

Complete: A Better-Than-Anticipated Burda 7214

Some patterns are friendly. Some are barely civil. And then there are some that you expect are going to be hard work, but turn out to be surprisingly accommodating. Exhibit A: Burda 7214, a close-fitting, jeans-style pant, with fly front and (in View A) knee panels and zip openings at hem. (I have to apologise in advance for some pretty average photos - I didn't notice the heavy shadows until well afterwards, and, since I'm already so far behind in posts and am finding it hard to get time to photos taken, I decided bad photos were better than no photos....)

I used a grey stretch drill - the pattern calls for stretch fabrics - which behaved very nicely throughout. I do feel after having worn them several times that something just a little heavier would have perhaps been a better choice, but it's not a big complaint. I'd really like to try this pattern some time in a stretch denim.

View A had the option of panels/bands at knee level - hard to see here, but detail pic below - and I while I liked them at the front, I didn't include them at the back. It also called for zips below the front pockets, which seemed like overkill to me, especially since they weren't functional but just sewn on for decoration.

The ankle zips were supposed to be 25cm/10", but that looked a little too long to me, especially since I had to shorten the legs by 6cm. I used 15cm /7" instead, which seemed a better proportion on me.

The main reason I found this pattern so accommodating was because the construction steps made fitting relatively painless. The outer leg seams are sewn up (with zips inserted) first, and since these are meant to be a skinny style, it was just a matter of pinning the inside seams to fit. I ended up taking each leg in 0.5cm at the crotch and tapering down to 4cm at the ankle.

I have a fairly pronounced swayback also, but this adjustment was greatly helped by the fact that the waistband is sewn on before the centre back seam is done. This means the back seam can be adjusted to fit without impacting on any other steps. I had to take a good chunk out, evidenced by the fact that when unworn the pants don't lie flat! Never mind - I'd rather they look better on me than on the hanger. :)

One tiny disappointment, and the main reason for thinking a heavier fabric would be preferable, is the fact that the front pocket linings are kind of obvious - see above. Now all I've read suggests that when that happens the pants are too tight, but I'm not sure that's the problem here since I can comfortably fit my arm down the front of the pant legs when I'm wearing them. (I know that sounds slightly concerning - it was in the interests of research, I promise!) The linings are just a lightweight cotton, so shouldn't be evident; I'm going to chalk it up to not-quite-ideal fabric choice.

First ever fly front attempt here! I had to read through the instructions several times before it all started making sense, and even that only happened after going over Closet Case Files's tutorial with intense concentration. We got there in the end though, and I'm pretty pleased with the end result.

My favourite detail though was inspired by Helen's gorgeous quilted Linden. I loved the effect she created on the front, and had been waiting for the right project to attempt something similar. There was already a lot of topstitching on this project (way more than I'd ever done, anyway!), so I thought more stitching as a decorative feature would tie in quite well. So I sewed horizontal lines at 2cm intervals over the knee panels and, even though it's a fairly subtle detail, I think adds a nice touch!

 

 

An enormous help in doing this neatly was the quilting arm/attachment that came with my machine. Funny thing is, I never even noticed it (or my edgestitching foot! Love!) until a few months ago, when I started teaching a friend to sew. Not being familiar with her machine I read her manual and later discovered I had all the same enviable accessories she did, yay! Googled image below - it's the backwards "L" shaped piece, and the long end slots into the back of a standard presser foot; you set it so that the other end sits at whatever width interval you want. Simple, but so very helpful!



The pattern instructed that the ankle zips be sewn on top of the fabric, but I didn't like the look of that and sewed them inside the seam instead.

Back view, and you can see here how the upper back doesn't quite sit flat. The next pair I make of these I'm definitely making the pockets a bit smaller. The positioning is fine at the upper edge, it's just that I think they look way too low by the time they finish. (I'm not sure if you can tell in the above back view, so you'll just have to take my word for it.)

 

 

Minor niggles aside, I'm pretty pleased that I've made Complicated Pants/Trousers! It's given me enough confidence to attempt a pair of jeans based on a much loved pair that finally wore out last year. I'm not sure if I want to make jeans-making an ongoing thing, but these were my favourite ever and in theory at least, since I know and love the fit, won't give me any fitting issues. Or does that just sound like sheer blind optimism?? I guess we'll see...

 

After I've sewn those up, I've decided to take a break from sewing for a bit. (I'm hoping that won't translate to posting regularity, given my project backlog....) See, I finished Me Made May this year feeling really dissatisfied, and that feeling actually intensified during June and July. It's not that I don't like the things I've sewed for myself, it's more that my me-made wardrobe feels really disjointed and lacking in cohesion. In all other areas of my life I try to simplify and declutter, yet in sewing I feel like I've been increasingly driven to buy and make more and more and more stuff. My wardrobe is full, yet I'm still accumulating and wondering what to wear every morning. I'm feeling like the proverbial hamster on a wheel; working harder and harder to no real effect!

 

For those reasons, I'm taking time out. I've been working through Colette's Wardrobe Architect, which is excellent. I've been reading through pretty much every post written on the Into Mind and Unfancy blogs. I'm getting more and more excited at the idea of a seasonal capsule wardrobe. I want a smaller, more thoughtful and considered collection of clothes that are exactly right for me and that I love every time I pull them on. And it's become patently obvious that I can't do that without investing some proper time and thought into the process.

 

So, that's the plan and I'm feeling good about it!

 

 



Complete: Queue Jumper Dress

Hello all! I have to confess, it's going to be a bit of a rush job of a post this time, since life is pretty frantic at the moment (three days till school production...). But what with the show, and two weeks of family holidays starting next week (hurrah!!), if I don't sneak a post in tonight it's not going to happen for ages.

I've dubbed this my Queue Jumper Dress for good reason - it inveigled its way up the sewing and bloggy queues. Last week we had the chance of a night out at the theatre, and after three solid months of very unselfish sewing, I grabbed the opportunity of a free evening to sew purely for moi. Plus, all my recent (well, recent-ish) sewing for myself has been purely practical - it was time was for a bit of fun!

Enter Burda 6919. A (to my mind) 70s inspired, drapey, blouson, batwing sleeved knit dress. With, I admit, very little hanger appeal...

I found this black and gold lurex knit at my local favourite fabric store. It's lovely and sparkly, without being too much so - maybe "gleamy" is a better word. (Albeit a specially coined one.) I cut out the size 10 without any alterations, but I think next time I might size down one size.

Since I didn't have a belt to wear with it that really suited, I made up a self fabric tie to sit over the elasticated waist; I just think it looks a bit more finished that way.

 There does seem to be a bit of an odd fold at the back lower waist, but I'm not sure whether that's because the fabric is sticking to my tights... It doesn't seem to happen when I'm wearing heels, but it's still boots-and-tights weather here at the moment!

It went together very easily, almost all of it done on the overlocker, although despite several attempts this fabric was having nothing to do with twin needle stitching of any kind. I got around that (on sleeve cutouts and all hems) with a zigzag stitch.

As much as I like the design, I do have two niggles with the pattern as drafted. Firstly, the neckband piece is the same length as the neckline itself. Now, this had me a bit concerned as I came to sew it - surely that would make the neckband stick out?? - but thought I'd follow instructions and see whether I couldn't learn something new. So I did it as per the instructions, and guess what? The neckband stuck out.

This stuff is beyond hideous to unpick, so after a bit of thought, I folded the band down over the right side of the neckline and top stitched it down.

 
It's still doesn't sit perfectly flat, but it's a huge improvement on what it was! And with my new my-present-to-me necklace sitting over the top, no one can tell anyway ;)

The second thing that puzzled me about the pattern was the waistline. It has diagonal pleats extending up over the bodice and down the skirt, which I really liked. But I think they get a bit lost when the elastic is sewn to them on the underside. I'm wondering whether it wouldn't work better to have the elastic begin and end either side of the pleats instead? I'd like to try this pattern again in a more casual fabric and see. I'm thinking a navy jersey would make a pretty nice comfy-but-presentable spring weather dress.

I still have enough fabric over for a MariaDenmark Kimono Tee, which I've been meaning to try out for a while now. I'm fairly sure it won't happen before holidays next week though....

To be honest, I don't know just how much wear this one will get - there's not a lot of call for sparkly dresses in day to day wear. But oh! it felt good to do some selfish and frivolous sewing for a change!

What's your current project? Purely practical or frivolously fun??

Complete: Gathered Sundress

Confession: I have a bit of a thing for sundresses. Ever since my sister and I made a pact about five years ago that we would actually start wearing the dresses in our wardrobes (v intimidating - someone might see... hey, we grew up in the 90s, when minimalism + grunge meant that heels with jeans felt wildly overdressed), I've been completely enamoured with the sheer effortlessness of a sundress. Throw it on and you're good to go :) Gotta love that!

Consequently, I've  been on an ongoing quest to find/make the Definitive Summer Dress. You've seen my 70s shirtdress and my sari dress, but here are a few pre-blog others:

Five years old and still a favourite - New Look 6557. And being halterneck, almost impossible to photograph hanging up... Printed cotton lawn, lined in plain lawn. Perfect for looking presentable in ridiculous heat.

Burda 7494. Modified to A-line skirt with pockets (of course). Red lined broderie anglaise. Always feel happy in this, but it's best worn in the 20-something Celsius range.

Can't actually remember which pattern this was, only that I made so many changes it was hard to tell it was that pattern in the end... Good dress for more formal occasions in hot weather, but not a whole lot else. The pencil skirt is just a bit constricting in summer.

Burda 7494 again, sans cap sleeves and with altered neckline, A-line skirt and pockets. Excellent throw on dress - fitted but not tight, breathes beautifully, and has a happy print. Love it.

And now, the latest in the sundress family - Pattern Runway's Gathered Sundress.  This may be my favourite yet...

I found this silk-cotton at The Fabric Store in Melbourne. I adored it on sight; I didn't know you could get silk-cotton! It's the best of both worlds - the luxury and feel of silk and the breathability and cooperativeness of cotton. And I swear, it's like air to wear :)

It's not a solid teal, it's actually a very thin teal and green stripe, with almost a seersucker texture.

I was of two minds during construction - there was enough after cutting out all the pieces to squeeze out a sleeveless top. But, after chatting with my Real Life Sewing Friend I decided to finish this off properly - the way I really wanted to. Therefore, piping!

I love piping anyhow, but piping in striped fabric just makes me very, very happy. The binding on the pocket edges was part of the pattern, and it's one of my favourite details.

This is a pretty easy pattern to put together - it really just has to be fitted at the bodice and waist. This was an XS graded up to between an XS and S at the waist. And it has just the right balance of fitted and breezy that a sundress should have. Being a pretty classic style too, it's going to give me years of wear. To me, that ticks all the boxes!

That's about it for this summer's sewing. I've got a couple of other makes to post, but I'm getting excited about my planned cool-weather projects. After all, Me Made May is approaching...

Hey, just out of curiosity, would you have gone for two garments, or added extra detail to the one??

Have a wonderful week :)