Complete: A Jacket & Leftover Skirt

I'm back this week with an attempt to triumph over vanity. Well, to at least let pride triumph over vanity...which doesn't sound all that laudable at all, really. I'll explain - this is one of my favourite ever things to wear that I've made, coupled with some of my least liked photos (own fault: felt wretched, should've stayed home, soldiered on and can see it in every shot. Never mind, we can't all be models!)

 



This jacket is a pattern released by Spotlight here in Australia, oh, maybe seven years ago, as part of their then Get Creative range. I bought it at the time in case I ever tried making clothes for myself sometime in the future (!), and promptly forgot about it. The fabric, a wine -not purple - coloured pinwale corduroy I bought two years ago in case I ever tried making a casual blazer, and promptly forgot about it.

 

The pattern calls itself a military-style jacket. I didn't make any structural modifications; the only changes I made were to not do the three rows of topstitching at each seam (not avoidance, I just thought it would be lost and wasted on corduroy), and to lose the front tie fastenings (which looked fussy and annoying).

 

The above photo is from May, which I've included because I actually look happy in this shot. Plus, this outfit (jacket, Kanerva blouse and Burda pants) is one of my all-time favourites, self-made or otherwise, which I think is worth acknowledging!

In far less happy shots...

 As mentioned above, this jacket had tie fastenings, so doesn't do up at the front. I was dubious at first (wouldn't it just look too small?) but I actually really like how it sits. The shaping in it gives a nice line, and it doesn't feel at all restrictive like a done-up blazer sometimes can.

 Instead of the ties, I experimented with these patches for (non-functioning) buttonholes and buttons.

I sewed them on a very slight diagonal, with the cord's direction contrasting with the fabric underneath. The vintage buttons were a surprise gift from Sarah along with one of her giveaways; I'd been saving them up waiting for the perfect project.

 

I mentioned a few posts ago that I've been trying to find uses for my ever-growing pile of scraps and leftovers. Well, this gets a double tick! There was no lining drafted for the pattern itself, just wide facings at front, back yoke and hem. I'd overlocked the other seams, which were also top-stitched (just once though), and they looked fine. But I thought I'd to try something a bit special on the facings' edges, and so bound them with some of the leftover silk from my Vogue 1152 dress. Confession: it's not cut strictly on the bias, since there wasn't enough fabric, but since all the edges were straight or diagonal I didn't think it would matter too much. I love the effect! 

 

 

The other tick is given for, wait for it: getting a whole other garment out of the leftovers! True, the hem isn't as generous as it should be and the back piece is seamed rather than cut on the fold, but I'm not arguing! This is View B of Burda 7147, an A-line mini wrap skirt:

 

...and I definitely should have ironed the wrinkles out pre-photography... This is a really quick project, that can be squeezed out of just under a metre of fabric.

The fronts fold back over themselves to form facings, and snaps are sewn on to secure it.

 Some dark early morning photos there, sorry. I like an A-line silhouette, although this is a much shorter version than I'm used to. I probably wouldn't wear it without tights.

One change I did make that was choice and not necessity was to add a lining; since I planned to wear this with tights I thought that it might help stop it riding up or "sticking". And it works. I wish I could think of a way to stop it sticking to itself at the front wrap...

So, one lot of project leftovers has been used up. Now I just have to find ways to use up the rest of the drawer!

Complete: Style Arc Rowe Top ( & Rowe Top...& Rowe Top...)

Hello all! I'm grabbing the first spare hour I've had in over a week to sit and post - honestly, December this year is feeling like a massive To-Do list. I think I'm usually pretty good at keeping things fairly relaxed over the festive season, but I've gotten right out of whack this time :/  Must remember for next year ... simplify!

I do have some big (for me) news though - I have made friends with knits! I've been genuinely intimidated by the notion of knit fabric for "ordinary" clothes. Even though I've made plenty of costumes using knits, I didn't really think I could achieve a nice, professional-looking finish on everyday wear. So even though I cut this pattern out back in - wait for it - May, it sat on the desk until two weeks ago. (Yup, this was one of the four projects I pledged to make for MMM. Oops.)

Two weeks ago though I decided it was ridiculous to be defeated by fabric and had a go. And in doing so I discovered my new favourite pattern! This is Style Arc's Rowe Top / Tunic. (I'm having trouble linking to it, but googling that should take you straight there :) ). I've been wanting a slouchy tee for a while, but a lot of the RTW ones I've tried on are very boxy, which is a look I really like - but only on other people. Also, a lot of them seem to gape at the neck, and I wanted something comfy I could move in without having to constantly glance down and check on.

It's nice and slouchy, but has a nice shape at the sides ( not that you can really tell on the hanger...) And I'm not sure how the fine folks at SA did it, but the neckline sits flat at all times. Hurrah! This was straight from the pattern with no modifications.

You know when you tell yourself you're only making a muslin, but you're actually really hoping it turns out to be a proper wearable garment? Here 'tis :)

The sleeves are finished with bands of the same fabric, which makes for a really nice finish.The only change I'd make from now on, and this is purely personal preference, would be to take a bit of volume out of the sleeve hem. 4cm / 1 1/2" would be just about perfect.

I like the design line on the back; I think it's a nice little added feature. Plus, it would lend itself to colour-blocking very nicely.

I had a bit of trouble getting a smooth stitching line at first - as you can see on that back seam above. But what I was more worried about was getting the hemline to look right (you know, not "homemade"). This was the main intimidation factor, after all! But my machine's instruction manual had this strange, random-sounding little tip that I'd never heard of before: If stitching line is not smooth, sew with a sheet of paper underneath.

I gave it a go, even though it sounded a bit like some editor was bored and having a laugh. You know what? It works! Below you can see the one of the first practice pieces lying over the top of the sewn-to-paper piece:

Who'd have thunk it! Mind you, I'd also like to add that you need to be very careful as you're tearing the paper away afterwards...One side at a time works best I found :)

A few months after I cut that one out I bought a beautiful remnant of a neutral coloured wool jersey (about 1.5m, I think). I bought it with this pattern in mind, hoping that one day I'd actually be brave enough to attempt it. Then I happened to notice that colour-wise it worked quite well with the sequin fabric I made my last post's Festive Skirt out of. I'm trying to get a bit more creative with leftover project scraps - I really hate waste - so I experimented a little. And I think it worked!

 From memory, the sleeves are 5cm / 2" shorter than the pattern, and hemmed rather than finished with the bands. I also combined the upper and lower back pieces into one pattern piece. This is easy - just match up notches and make sure the seam lines are laid on top of each other, rather than laying the pattern pieces edge to edge:

I generally cut out pattern pieces pretty frugally (a legacy of years of costuming on minimal budgets!), so once I'd done the one above I thought I just might be able to squeeze another top out of what was left over. This fabric is so soft and fine and warm, that it seemed a shame not to have a long sleeved top for winter out of it... And, as luck would have it, there was a post I'd read by Grainline a few days earlier that explained how to convert a short sleeved pattern into a long sleeved one. There was just enough to make it work!

There's probably a bit too much volume in the lower arm; I could have graded it in a bit so it was more noticeably 'batwing". And in a perfect world, I would have finished off the hem with a band also. But these are pretty small niggles overall, especially given I got my two tops out of one remnant!

So there you have it; my new go-to comfy pattern! Don't you just love accommodating patterns??

Do you have any "blank canvas" dependables like this one? Or any more tips for sewing with knits? Do share!

Have a wonderful week :)

Danielle oxo

A Tale of Two Cowls...(or, A Story of Stashbusting)

Hello to you! I have to admit that I'm feeling really good about the makes in this post, because these are all stashbuster projects! I've mentioned before how I really don't have a stash that deserves the name; I like to keep all fabric and yarn contained in two drawers in my cabinet ever since I realised that, for me, too much stuff actually gets in the way of my creative energy. BUT, this year - having been making for myself so much more - I'm finding those drawers are filling up with leftovers from finished projects, that are too big to throw away, but aren't quite enough for garments in their own right.

So I decided it was time to stashbust - albeit on a limited scale! I started with my wool drawer, (because it only just shuts at the moment...) About 18 months ago I bought 10 extra balls of Rowan Bamboo Soft, after making a beanie and LOVING the feel of it. (Though not being much of a hat person I've not yet been game to actually wear it out of the house). I had my eye on a Kim Hargreaves pattern, but when I checked people's Ravelry notes, every single entry bewailed the way this yarn stretches and grows over time. The general consensus seemed to be thumbs up for scarves and hats, and multiple thumbs down for anything else. I used some back in March for a beanie for a friend, but there's still plenty left.

A few minutes wandering around Ravelry gave me the Grey Loop Cowl pattern. Perfect! Three evenings in front of the TV and we were done. Here 'tis:

It's a really simple long lace cowl, requiring minimal concentration :) Because it's knit in the round, apart from two purl rows, it's pretty much all plain knit stitch - even the lace sections are just knit, yarn over, repeat to end.

It's a really slinky, sheeny yarn, and it feels beautiful to wear. I can see what people meant though about it growing; its really just the cast on/cast off edges that are keeping it to size. I don't think you could go too much wider than this. I'd love to try this pattern in a cozy, thicker wool as well - I think it would be a really different result. After this cowl and the March beanie I'm down to just five balls in the stash drawer - yay!

I also had one skein of Cascade 220, an aran or worsted weight wool (what is the difference between those two? I still don't know) left over from my Beatnik jumper. (Not blogged, but you can see it here).  For this I used Carina Spencer's Dovetail Cowl. I would have loved to do the longer version, but didn't have enough. In the end though I'm happy with the shorter version, especially since I just made the longer Grey Loop cowl.  At first I thought I couldn't get it to sit right, then I realised it's really supposed to just smoosh down around your neck! It's really snug and cozy, and I love it. :)

Apart from cables, I really haven't done much in the way of textured knitting. I'll definitely be doing more though - it was fascinating to watch the pattern emerge. Who would've thought just varying up knit and purl stitches could do that?? Not me! Love it :)

I've started working on a wee jumper for a friend's baby, but after that, I'm casting on one more for me. I'm hoping I can get it done before Spring really sets in...we'll see!

One more stash bust to show - this one for my youngest, who had National Book Week Dress Up Day last week. The idea is to dress up as a favourite book character, and he immediately suggested Bilbo from The Hobbit. (He's already got the hair for it! In fact, "Hobbit" was our nickname for him until he asked us to stop it.) If you look closely below, you'll see the remains of my third Ginger skirt. They made a convincing hobbity waistcoat - with gold buttons, as per his very specific instructions ;) He looks a bit grim in the photo, but I think that's mainly because he insisted on being barefoot for it, and it was freezing outside. He's worn it after school every day since, so we'll count it a win.

In other news, I'm going to give the Sew Weekly Reunion Challenge a go after all. I DID find fabric on my last shopping trip, and I figure if I use/adapt a pattern I've used before I won't have to worry about fitting issues. I do have a busy week ahead, but it's mostly cut out, so I think with a bit of effort I can squeeze it in. It has meant though I've decided not to join in on the Fall For Cotton Challenge, much as I would love to... You can't do everything, can you?!

Just curious, how do you decide what challenges or sewalongs to get involved in? Does it have to fit in with existing sewing plans? Or do you prefer to try something out of your comfort zone?

Have a wonderful week :)

Danielle oxo