Complete: Nostalgia Skirt

Happy New Year everyone! Hope yours has begun happily and heathily. 

Now this technically isn't the first make of the year, but I've got something of a backlog of unblogged projects (mojo was running high during October and November...) I have a feeling this may not be to everyone's taste, but I really don't mind that because personally I love it. Do you know, it occurs to me that before I started sewing for myself two years ago I could never have said that? Much less, meant it? Sewing really has given me much more confidence in my own opinions and taste!

I very rarely impulse buy fabric anymore - I like having a controllable stash far too much :) But occasionally if I spy a really wonderful print or just the right kind of sparkle that piece is going to come home with me. And so it was with this ever so slightly sheeny, made-in-Italy gem I found in the remnant basket at my local warehouse. It's a collection of painted city scenes, cafes, restaurants etc, printed in all directions. Having held it up from each edge in turn in front of family members, the verdict was evenly split over which way was up so I figured it didn't matter. There was just 60cm left, which I was hoping would be enough for a longer line pencil skirt, using trusty old New Look 6107. (Two other me-made favourites from this pattern here, and here)

The reason I loved this print so immediately was that it reminded me vividly of a painting of my grandfather's, an artist, that used to hang in their holiday home. That was a cityscape too, and I remember I used to love staring at it when I was little. There was a real energy to the scene, and part of me was genuinely convinced that if I just looked long enough or at just the right moment I'd see the people and trams start to move....It was one of my favourite things about visiting there :)

Naturally, I wasn't about to leave it in the remnant bin! Here's a close up - you can see some upside down people near the top... 

My art knowledge certainly isn't all it could be, so I've no idea whether this is / these are famous pieces, and I don't recognise the signature below. If it is well known and anyone could enlighten me as to the artist, I'd love to know!

Aside: Here's a tip I wish I'd heard before prewashing this fabric - serge or zigzag over the cut edges first. Not doing this cost me 5cm (2") of length - believe me when I tell you this stuff frays like no one's business. In any case, it's not quite as long as I planned and hoped for...

What was left after prewashing gave me enough to cut a length halfway between view D & E.

The size 8 is a comfortable fit at the waist and hips on me, but I wanted it a bit more tapered at the hem. In the previous versions I did this at the back seam, but since I wanted to have the kick pleat on this one, I took it in at the side seams instead. 1" at both seams was enough to shape it and still allow for walking comfortably. Which is important. (And my one quibble with the BHL Charlotte skirt)

The fabric wasn't flimsy, but I wasn't sure whether it had enough weight to cope with tucked in tops, so I underlined it in a beige poplin. It's nicely structured now. Edges were just overlocked, and I quite like the look of the patterned seams against the plain insides.

 I found the waist band seams were getting quite bulky, even after layering/trimming, so I decided to try binding the lower edge of the facing with bias binding - a decision made easier by the fact that I already had some just the right colour. I hadn't tried this before, and I really like it; it's a nice little finish.

This, I foretell, is going to be a pretty useful transitional piece. It's a bit heavy for hot weather, but for most of the rest of the year I think I'll get plenty of wear of it. (We had a cold snap in October so I can confidently state it also works very well with a jumper, tights and boots). Win!

Last post I shared re goals for 2015, particularly re slowing down and sewing fewer garments, but putting more care into ensuring I made each one the best I could. There was a photo I'd seen on Pinterest, that was actually what starting me thinking along those lines. I couldn't find it while I was writing the last time, but have since:

I don't know who these women are, where they're from, or anything about them, but I was so inspired by this photo. All that incredible, intricate, painstaking work! It's just extraordinary. 

2014 for me unintentionally became about making as many items on my master list as possible. In retrospect, I'm not sure that really fits into the ideals behind 'slow' fashion, which is what prompted me to start sewing my clothes rather than buying RTW. I know I had ideas about garments, in terms of finishing, embellishment or technique, that I dismissed because "it would take too long". (Even on this skirt, I debated trying Hong Kong seams and didn't, solely because of that.) I want to get to the end of 2015 having made garments I'm really proud of. That's the plan, anyway! 

What are your plans for 2015? 

Complete: More Summer Basics

Well, hello to you! It's been tricky of late to find the time to sit down and do this post - probably because I've been spending all my spare time sewing instead - but here are the rest of this summer's basic tees. I warn you in advance, this is a pretty photo-heavy post, but maybe someone out there will find the comparisons helpful. I always like reading up on other people's experiences of patterns before I tackle them anyway :)

Last time I shared my versions of the Kirsten Kimono Tee. This time we'll kick off with the knit top from New Look 6899, the pattern I used for my Head vs Heart Skirt (still a favourite, by the way). When I bought it it was really only for the skirt; the top didn't register as a possibility at all. But two years on, I thought it was time to try it. Because I sew knits now... ;)

This is a slightly scooped boat neck top with raglan sleeves, and I used a fine, drapey (viscose?) knit fabric from Rathdowne Fabrics and Remnants. The pattern has quite a lot of shaping, including at the back centre seam, and I was able to do the whole thing on the overlocker. (Why did I ever bother trying to sew knits on my regular machine??)

(Please ignore the dire need for ironing...) I think I stretched the raglan seams a little when sewing them, which is something I'll have to watch out for next time.

The pattern actually calls for twin needling at the hem and sleeves, which I tried to do. Unfortunately my machine wasn't having a bar of that - it absolutely destroyed those hemlines, chewing up the fabric like no one's business. (Is this normal for lighter-weight fabrics? I must research that more.) In the end I had to cut all attempted hems off. This meant for the sleeves at least there wasn't enough fabric left to turn under and try again, not without catching up the upper side seam, anyway. So instead I sewed bands to finish them off, and this is where the formula given in the Kirsten Tee was so helpful. Although since arm bands don't curve the same way a neckband does, I probably could have made them slightly longer than the given 70% - maybe 80% or so.

The hem band I kept the same width as the top itself, so as to keep the drape. Wish I'd made sure it was sitting flat before taking the photo...

 I do like this one, but I've found I like it best tucked in with skirts or trousers (just not jeans...). The drapiness of the fabric gives it a bit of a blouse feel that seems to work when it's tucked in. I'd happily make this one again, although maybe next time in a fabric that can handle a twin needle.


Next up is the Tonic Tee, by Skinny Bitch, Curvy Chick Patterns, a free fitted t-shirt pattern that I downloaded back in February and hadn't got around to until now. (There's a free long sleeved, crew neck version too - also free - that I will absolutely be sewing up for next autumn/winter).

Very Important Note, that I wish had been mentioned in the instructions: As a PDF pattern you have to tape these pages together with the edges butted up flush against each other, NOT overlapping them. It's not something I've ever come across in a PDF pattern before, and since the pattern lines on the pages don't go right to the edges it does look as though they're meant to overlap. But they're not. This was extremely confusing until I googled other people's Tonic posts. I love the online sewing community...

I sewed this up in a cotton grey marle knit, that has plenty of stretch, but little drape.

I sewed the XS graded out to S at the hips, according to the measurements given, and it's a very similar fit to RTW. Again, all done on the overlocker, bar the twin needling at hems - no trouble this time!

It went together very easily, and was a relatively quick make. Would I make it again? Well, actually...

I already did!

This one (which I cut out at the same time as I did the first, in either Blind Optimism or Lack of Foresight...lucky it fits!) is out of the same fabric as the New Look top above. At least I thought it was, but it seemed to handle the twin needle fine - on the sleeves at least. The hem was so appalling I couldn't even bear to photograph it. Nothing for it but to cut it off. If I could have burned the offcuts I would have. Once again, the band solution came to the rescue.

There was one other change I made to the first Tonic, and that was the neckband. I think you can tell in the photos that the second sits a bit more nicely. Go back and check. I'll wait :)

 When I sewed the grey neckband on, I was surprised to see that it wasn't sitting quite flat, since the rest of the top was going together so nicely. I went back and checked the instructions and saw this:

Notice how in the illustration there's overhang at both ends? I'd completely missed that the first time around.

Now, it feels a bit ungracious to say this when the pattern is free, but I don't see why the pattern piece can't just be printed at the right size. Since there are no markings or notches, it really is guesswork to get it right. I just tried to make my pinned pre-sewn version look similar to the diagram and hoped for the best.

When they're laid out flat together, you can see the difference:

It's really just a minor quibble I suppose, because I really do like the fit overall - these are going to be great summer basics, and being fitted, will sit very nicely layered under jackets or cardigans in cooler weather too. It's a good go-to pattern, and will get plenty of use down the track I think.

To wrap up, here's the last of my summer tees - ironically this was the first I made, and that back in May. This is the Style Arc Riva Raglan Tee. 

I think this is meant to be a sporty style tee. I also think I'd like it much better in a different fabric, though to be fair, this was only ever intended to be the muslin. It got pressed into service during MMM.

This is a knit with plenty of stretch (it has a cotton lycra kind of feel, but I'm guessing here) and is also extremely stiff. Since it's a bit more voluminous than the other patterns here, that makes it quite sticky-outy when worn (There's probably a proper sewing term for that, but I don't know it, sorry...)

 Also - and this is the first time I've ever wondered about the drafting on a SA pattern - the neckband seems a little long because it just doesn't sit flat, You can see that in the photos above. And if not, you can definitely see it in the one below:

This one doesn't really get worn out of the house, unless it's to go walking the dog, or picking up kids from the bus stop. I think a future version would be vastly improved by using a softer fabric and fine tuning the fit of the neckband. It does seem to be asking for a second chance, especially with contrast sleeves... Maybe some time.

Anyhow, that's it for the summer basics (unless I can find a singlet or tank pattern I like in the next few weeks). Apologies for the mercilessly long post; I won't inflict such a long one on you all again, I promise!

 The best thing about sewing my basics first, rather than diving in to the exciting ones, is that now my more interesting projects will all have something that goes with them...no more wardrobe orphans :D

Next post, one of my favourite makes ever!

PS: Can anyone suggest a good singlet /tank pattern?? Thanks :D

Complete: Gathered Sundress

Confession: I have a bit of a thing for sundresses. Ever since my sister and I made a pact about five years ago that we would actually start wearing the dresses in our wardrobes (v intimidating - someone might see... hey, we grew up in the 90s, when minimalism + grunge meant that heels with jeans felt wildly overdressed), I've been completely enamoured with the sheer effortlessness of a sundress. Throw it on and you're good to go :) Gotta love that!

Consequently, I've  been on an ongoing quest to find/make the Definitive Summer Dress. You've seen my 70s shirtdress and my sari dress, but here are a few pre-blog others:

Five years old and still a favourite - New Look 6557. And being halterneck, almost impossible to photograph hanging up... Printed cotton lawn, lined in plain lawn. Perfect for looking presentable in ridiculous heat.

Burda 7494. Modified to A-line skirt with pockets (of course). Red lined broderie anglaise. Always feel happy in this, but it's best worn in the 20-something Celsius range.

Can't actually remember which pattern this was, only that I made so many changes it was hard to tell it was that pattern in the end... Good dress for more formal occasions in hot weather, but not a whole lot else. The pencil skirt is just a bit constricting in summer.

Burda 7494 again, sans cap sleeves and with altered neckline, A-line skirt and pockets. Excellent throw on dress - fitted but not tight, breathes beautifully, and has a happy print. Love it.

And now, the latest in the sundress family - Pattern Runway's Gathered Sundress.  This may be my favourite yet...

I found this silk-cotton at The Fabric Store in Melbourne. I adored it on sight; I didn't know you could get silk-cotton! It's the best of both worlds - the luxury and feel of silk and the breathability and cooperativeness of cotton. And I swear, it's like air to wear :)

It's not a solid teal, it's actually a very thin teal and green stripe, with almost a seersucker texture.

I was of two minds during construction - there was enough after cutting out all the pieces to squeeze out a sleeveless top. But, after chatting with my Real Life Sewing Friend I decided to finish this off properly - the way I really wanted to. Therefore, piping!

I love piping anyhow, but piping in striped fabric just makes me very, very happy. The binding on the pocket edges was part of the pattern, and it's one of my favourite details.

This is a pretty easy pattern to put together - it really just has to be fitted at the bodice and waist. This was an XS graded up to between an XS and S at the waist. And it has just the right balance of fitted and breezy that a sundress should have. Being a pretty classic style too, it's going to give me years of wear. To me, that ticks all the boxes!

That's about it for this summer's sewing. I've got a couple of other makes to post, but I'm getting excited about my planned cool-weather projects. After all, Me Made May is approaching...

Hey, just out of curiosity, would you have gone for two garments, or added extra detail to the one??

Have a wonderful week :)

Complete: Homage Skirt

...Because "homage" sounds much nicer than "ripoff" ;)

I'd planned to write this post earlier this week, but it's been an unusual few days. As any Australian readers will know all too well, we've been sweltering through the hottest stretch of weather since 1908- that's the Victorian statistic anyway. And in Australia, that typically means bushfires. We didn't quite get to the point of evacuation, but friends just 3km away did. As it was, the car was packed with bare essentials ready to go at any point. Five separate "incidents" - official term - within 20km of home is pretty spooky for a most-of-her-life-suburbanite! In any case, blogging kind of slipped down the list of priorities....

But it was kind of enlightening, looking at the sparsely packed car, to realise how few material things in life are genuine essentials. Evidently my decluttering journey still has some way to go.

But, on to sewing. This is actually my last make of last year; I wanted something new to wear on Christmas Day. And ever since I saw Sarah of Fabric Tragic's Monet on Acid Charlotte Skirt I've really wanted something similar of my own - a bright floral with a design solid enough to look great as a summer or winter skirt. A trip to Rathdowne Remnants yielded me just the thing; a cheerful (slight) stretch cotton, bright florals on a black background. (I was meant to be helping to look for bridesmaid fabric, but the bride didn't mind me diverting for just a moment.)

Now I do have Charlotte Skirt pattern, and have used it, but I decided to go with New Look 6107, which I used just recently for my sequin skirt. (Which, by the way, has already has several outings. I love it more every time I wear it, and I can't believe I forgot to include it in my official Top 5). I like the lower waist band on this pattern for a more casual skirt, plus it's easier to walk in than the Charlotte. Also, using a different pattern made me feel a little less mindlessly imitative!

I wore it Christmas Day with my white Rowe top tucked in - which was actually my first Me Made Outfit. (I'm not sure if you can call a dress an outfit, can you??) It felt good - I can make coordinating items!!

I made it up exactly as I did the sequin skirt, with the same sizing and (minor) modifications. I have noticed though that this skirt, if I've been sitting down for any stretch of time, tends to get that horizontal fold in front. (You can see that in the front photo above) I'm not sure whether that's because it needed to be graded a little larger at the hips, or if it's just creases from wear. I think it's the latter; my sequin one certainly doesn't do that, and that fabric (plus underlining) is a good deal thicker. Although it may have a bit more stretch to it...Funny how different fabrics behave differently.

I did underline the skirt with a black voile, because I wanted to make sure the fabric was sturdy enough for the skirt style (and didn't create a VPL). On reflection though, I probably negated the stretch by doing so. I've worn it a couple of times since Christmas, and the fold really only happens after a few hours of wear. To be honest, it doesn't bother me too much anyway. Just something to note for next time :)

I did taper the back seam down to 2cm in from the seam allowance at the hem, like I did previously. I prefer the line that gives the skirt - it's just that little bit more shapely. But it still allows for things like, er, walking freely...

The one genuine regret I have is that I used the voile as the waistband lining/facing. I think that I was overcompensating for the thickness of the sequin one's waistband. But this one could have done with being a wee bit firmer, plus the voile is a little too transparent for that particular ask. Am I regretful enough to redo it? Not so much, no.

On the whole, I'm really happy with this, and it ticks the boxes for being a practical, wearable, versatile make. Nice to finish the year on a good note!

Finally, thank you to all of you who expressed interest in my fabric/yarn giveaway. the winners, as drawn by my man are:

Mika of Savoury Stitches  -  the Japanese lawn.
Gillian of Crafting a Rainbow  -  the navy gingham
Sarah of Fabric Tragic   -  The Abuelita yarn

Congratulations, and may your makes be satisfying and enviable! If you could email your address to me at daniellekrivan@gmail.com I'll get those parcels winging their way to you all ASAP.

Have a wonderful week :)

Danielle oxo