Complete: Kanerva Blouses

Back again, and this time with one of those dream pattern experiences you always kind of secretly hope for but very rarely encounter. Yup, the-no-alterations-needed-great-fit-straight-from-the-pattern experience! 

This is the Named Patterns Kanerva Peplum Blouse, and it's the most amiable, cooperative pattern I've yet come across. I do love Named's overall aesthetic, and I'd admired the lines of this simple blouse when it was first released. It just took me this long to get around to it!

I'd found a lovely soft white spotted Collette Dinnigan silk at Rathdowne Remnants in July, and had intended it for quite another top/tunic pattern. But my experience with making that one up in something else was such an unmitigated misery there was no way I was going to sacrifice this fabric to its vagaries...

I'm so glad I remembered Kanerva! I'm thrilled with how it paired with my special silk...

It's as light as air to wear, and I finally have an inkling of why someone would pay $$$$ for a designer blouse. (Not that it's an option - so glad I can sew!)

There's not much to really say about this one, other than it makes me very, very happy...

I do love the back opening (slightly awkward photo, but never mind), and the way the peplum sits open at the back. Mind you, even though I like the shank buttons I used - very plain, but echoing the tiny printed spot - they do start to be 'noticeable' if I'm sitting with my back against something for any length of time. Perhaps not a blouse for long car trips...

The only modification I made was to shorten the sleeves; I liked the look of them finishing at the waist seam. And, as per my resolution to take my time over projects this year rather than rushing them, I tried finishing them with a band, button and placket. It worked out pretty well, I think; I positioned the opening by copying another RTW blouse. The neckline is finished with bias binding cut from the same fabric, and all the insides are finished with french seams.

I think I'll be enjoying this one for years; the design is really classic and I'm happy with my workmanship on it. I haven't tried yet but I think it'll tuck into a high waisted skirt quite nicely, and since I'll just as happily wear it with jeans and a blazer or cardigan, it looks like it'll be a pretty versatile piece. 

I liked it so much actually, I dug out some rayon I've been hoarding for over a year - waiting for the perfect pattern - that I'd only bought a metre of. Which was not enough for anything much...except a sleeveless Kanerva!

I didn't even need to adjust the armholes; I thought they were fine as is.

This is a kind of rayon I hadn't come across before - it's a crepe kind of texture. It's a bit heavier than the silk above but still falls beautifully, and it feels wonderful to wear.

I'd planned on flat (see? learning from previous one...) silver metal buttons, but couldn't find any that I liked. So I went for plain navy ones, and I think I prefer those actually. It's a busier print than I usually wear, but I was drawn to it in the shop and I'm glad I went with it. Actually, I've noticed I tend towards prints in summer, but not much in winter - I'm more interested in texture when it comes to cool weather clothes.

I've worn this - both of them, actually - quite a bit already. I do love clothes that you can put on and effectively forget about (no fussing or adjusting), and this fits the bill nicely.

I didn't do french seams on this (why do I feel slightly apologetic??), and finished off the armholes with the binding as per the neck. I really do like this as a finishing technique - it makes the insides so pretty :)

I like the look of the peplum-less version of the blouse too, but feel like I'm a bit o-l-d to really carry it off. Perhaps with a high-waisted skirt or trousers with a singlet tucked in underneath (i.e. no midriff skin showing)....I'll give it further thought.

I forgot last time to include my sole effort at 2014 Christmassy gift sewing, so here 'tis:

A little rag doll for my one-year-old niece. This is the Jenny pattern by Pupadou on Etsy. My toy/doll sewing experience is slightly above non-existent, and so I can heartily recommend this pattern as ideal for beginners. It's beautifully drafted and the instructions are very clear. My mum sewed two summer dresses for her (i.e. granddaughter/niece) and gave me the leftovers so I could make up matching ones for the doll. It was a fun project!

But I have to admit, I liked getting back to 'selfish' sewing...

Inspired By: Festive Sewing

Hello and Happy December to you all! Since Christmas parties, work break ups and the like are just around the corner, I've been thinking Festive Sewing lately. After all, given my RTW ban this year, if I want something new I've got to DIY it. So I have!

Going back over my Pinterest boards I noticed I've pinned rather a lot of versions of these sequinned skirts:

Sequins are not really the kind of fabric I usually gravitate towards, but I really like the way this is "festive" without being too glitzy.... sequins for the introvert, if you like!

Then I found some fabric at Spotlight that I loved - a kind of muted bronze - and that decided it. I had some black silk chiffon that I thought would work as a sleeveless Style Arc Tiffany Blouse to go with it, but in the end I really wanted a top with a higher neckline to go with a mini (though not quite as mini as above!). Plus, to be completely honest, I couldn't face the thought of sewing chiffon just yet....

So instead I went with the Laurie Tee from Named Patterns. I've been wanting to try their designs since I saw them, so it was a good excuse!

At first I'd planned to use BHL's Charlotte Skirt pattern and lop off some length. But then I found New Look 6107 in amongst my patterns and thought its lower waistline and fewer darts might work better.

I already had a similarly coloured stable knit in my stash which I used to underline the sequins, since it's quite drapey and I wanted a more structured look. I used a lightweight fuse in the waistband, but I think if I ever make another I think I'd use something finer still; the seams got quite bulky.

I finished the inside seams with a zigzag stitch, but the hem I covered in wide organza ribbon folded in half and then stitched it down by hand. The raw edges where the sequins are cut are quite scratchy and I thought that the organza might give any tights I wear a fighting chance!

Now I'm not claiming to be an expert at all after one skirt, but just in case someone out there finds it useful, here are my thoughts on sewing sequinned fabric:

1.  Pick a pattern with as few seams as possible! There's no disguising seams or making them subtle - keep it simple :)

2.  Don't skimp on the basting if you underline it. Really. Do more than you think you need - it's worth it to have fabric that doesn't slip around or apart when you come to machine it. I found it really helpful to baste around the darts too.

3.  This didn't seem to be an issue with this particular fabric because the sequins are so tiny (see below), but for most of the other fabrics I saw I think it would be wise (and kinder on your machine and needle) to remove sequins along the seam lines. I've had to do that with beaded fabrics in the past, and I think most sequin fabric might require similar treatment. (I kind of wish I'd removed all of the sequins from all seam allowances in order to "de-bulk" the seams too) In which case...

4.  ....save all the removed sequins to hand sew back on once seams are sewn. Dull but again worth it.

5.  A longer stitch length seems to give a smoother finish. I used the 3 1/4 setting on my machine.

6.  Hand finish wherever possible!

I'm sure that's not a comprehensive list, but those are my discoveries anyhow. :)

On to the top. This probably shouldn't have worked - which is no comment at all on the pattern, believe me! It's drafted for knit fabrics, and this is a woven with a little bit of spandex thrown in. I couldn't find any knits that were fine enough for the blousey look I wanted. So I got this, hoping that since it's a looser fit the lesser stretch wouldn't be too much of an issue. And it wasn't - in the body. But the neck...well, let's just say I'll be doing hair and makeup after I've got it on! I cut the neckband piece on the bias, and that's the only reason I can get it on at all.

You can see that even with the bias cut, I've stretched it a little getting it on and off...

The only modifications I made to the pattern was to shape it at the sides a bit. I'll probably only ever wear it tucked in, but just in case I do wear it out I need a bit of shape for flattery. Boxy cuts don't really work on me. It's a great pattern though, and has definitely whetted my appetite to try more Named designs.

I've had a bit of a think about how else I can wear the skirt; I'm really trying to get a bit more adventurous when it comes to styling. I think it'll work for winter, with opaque tights and a cropped jumper/sweater. And I think, under certain circumstances, it could be dressed down with a slouchy tee, sandals and a denim jacket. Or it could work with a cardi, or a white shirt, or singlet top. It's actually more versatile than I first thought!

But, I have two questions that I'd love some advice on:

1: All my choices above work I think, but are pretty "safe" colour combinations. What colour or colours would you pair with bronze?

and 2:  How on earth do you wash/clean/ care for sequins??

Any advice would be much appreciated!

Have a wonderful week :)

Danielle oxo